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Compare the heat pump options

Seasonal efficiency, noise, cost and rebates: the four possible configurations compared against the Canadian climate.

There is no "best" heat pump in the abstract: there is the one that fits your building, the distribution system already in it and the climate zone you live in. On this page we compare the four configurations we install, with the technical numbers that actually matter and no convenient rankings. The financial figures are indicative, exclude HST, and refer to a detached home of roughly 1,500 sq ft.

Four possible configurations

Most requested

Ducted cold-climate

  • Typical HSPF2: 9.0–11.0
  • Full capacity down to: −15 to −25 °C
  • Outdoor unit noise: 35–50 dB(A)
  • Domestic hot water: no, separate tank
  • Indicative cost: $12,000–$18,000

Replaces the furnace outright and connects to the existing ductwork. It is the natural choice when the duct runs are adequately sized and the electrical panel has room for the new circuit.

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Best compromise

Hybrid (dual fuel)

  • Typical HSPF2: 8.5–10.0
  • Backup takes over at: −8 to −15 °C
  • Outdoor unit noise: 38–50 dB(A)
  • Domestic hot water: no, separate tank
  • Indicative cost: $8,000–$13,000

A heat pump paired with the existing condensing furnace: the control picks whichever fuel is cheaper at the current outdoor temperature. The sensible answer for poorly insulated houses, for undersized ducts, and for anyone on cheap natural gas who still wants cooling.

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Lowest spend

Ductless mini-split

  • Typical HSPF2: 10.0–12.5
  • Distribution: wall or ceiling heads
  • Outdoor unit noise: 45–55 dB(A)
  • Domestic hot water: no
  • Indicative cost: $3,000–$9,000

The reversible multi-head system. Excellent value in condos, additions and basements, but it makes no domestic hot water and heats separate closed rooms unevenly, so one head will not carry a whole house.

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Maximum efficiency

Ground source

  • Typical COP: 3.5–4.5 year-round
  • Loop water temperature: 0–10 °C
  • Outdoor noise: none
  • Domestic hot water: yes, with a desuperheater
  • Indicative cost: $25,000–$35,000

Efficiency holds steady all year because the ground does not care what the air is doing. Needs a large lot or a borehole, plus municipal and conservation-authority approvals — and it carries the largest Ontario rebate at up to $12,000.

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Detailed comparison

Criterion Ducted cold-climate Hybrid Ductless Ground source
Seasonal efficiency (HSPF2 / COP)9.0–11.08.5–10.010.0–12.5COP 3.5–4.5
Space heatingYesYesYesYes
Domestic hot waterSeparate tankSeparate tankNoYes, desuperheater
Summer coolingYesYesYesYes
Works with existing ductworkIf sized correctlyYesNot applicableIf sized correctly
Outdoor unit noise35–50 dB(A)38–50 dB(A)45–55 dB(A)None
Furnace decommissionedFullyNo, kept as backupOnly if it was the sole systemFully
Performance at −25 °CFull to 70% capacityFurnace carries the loadVaries widely by modelUnaffected
Expected service life15–20 years15–18 years10–15 yearsOver 25 years
Indicative investment$12,000–$18,000$8,000–$13,000$3,000–$9,000$25,000–$35,000
Home Renovation Savings rebateUp to $7,500Up to $7,500Up to $7,500 if it is the primary systemUp to $12,000
Best suited toDetached home 1,000–2,700 sq ft1970s–1990s house, poorly insulated or on gasCondo / addition / basementNew build with land

How to pick the right system

Choosing a heat pump is about far more than the list price. In the Canadian climate — with enormous differences between zone 5 on the Niagara peninsula and zone 7 north of Sudbury — the seasonal figure HSPF2 is a far more honest indicator than a COP quoted at a single test temperature. HSPF2 reflects how the machine behaves across an entire heating season, including the defrost cycles that a single-point COP conveniently ignores. A machine rated HSPF2 11 delivers roughly 3.2 kWh of heat for every kilowatt-hour on your bill, and the difference between HSPF2 9 and HSPF2 11 is easily $200–$350 a year for an average family.

Sizing matters at least as much as the brand. A machine that is too powerful short-cycles constantly, wears out its components and in practice delivers a worse seasonal figure than the one on the label. A machine that is undersized leans on the electric backup strip through the cold snaps and sends the bill through the roof. A qualified contractor always runs the heat loss calculation to CSA F280-12, based on floor area, insulation, windows, orientation and climate zone: rules of thumb along the lines of "so many kilowatts per so many square feet" are almost never good enough. Ask to see the calculation, and ask what outdoor temperature the changeover point is set to — that single number decides how much of your winter actually runs on the heat pump.

Noise matters most in built-up areas and in semi-detached and row housing, where the outdoor unit can sit a few metres from a neighbour's window. Municipal noise by-laws apply, along with the setbacks from the property line in your local zoning rules. Models under 45 dB(A) are generally untroublesome; siting makes a big difference too, and an anti-vibration pad or an acoustic screen can noticeably cut the perceived disturbance. Mount the unit on a stand rather than flat on the ground, or a February snowbank will bury the coil. Finally, always check that the company carries its TSSA fuels registration and ECRA/ESA electrical licence and that an ESA inspection certificate will be issued: without the paperwork you have no proof the work was inspected, and a rebate claim through an unregistered contractor will not be paid.

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